More Experimenting!

The petticoat bodies is almost done, here’s a pic of its trial run- I just need to adjust the waist and pleats a bit, and make a placard for the front.  I’d also like to add a guard, and maybe see about some stiffening on the inside of the hem as well to give it a bit more oomph.

red-kirtle-2red-kirtle

All in all, I’m fairly pleased with it so far.  The support in the chest and stomach is excellent, and extremely comfortable.  The back waist needs to be brought up about ¾”- the stiffened interlining fit fine in that area, but the wool itself is bulky enough that my construction method moved the waist down a bit, resulting in the back wrinkle you see here.  The right front pleat is a bit too low as well, I need to bring that up.  Not entirely sure what happened there- possibly I was so blinded by the color of the dress that I mispinned that pleat.

So- when last I wrote, the outer fabric had not yet been cut.  I cut out the bodice and wrapped it around the stiffened interlining, as below:

bodies-1bodies-2bodies-3

 

The skirts are very simple rectangles- I should have shaped them, honestly, and will do on the next pair- possibly I’ll gore the next kirtle as well.  I also bulked up the pleats at the back with a strip of wool:

pleats

The end result is a great foundational layer for late period garb.  I’ve tested it under an old doublet and found that the slight underbust wrinkling is pretty much entirely hidden under an outer garment, so the theory of this being one of the ways kirtles were stiffened is definitely showing promise in my book.

I’ve also been working on two sets of trunkhose- one paned, one unpaned.  I’ve been working with the pattern from The Tudor Tailor, which seems to be an amalgamation of a few different extant sets of trunkhose, as well as some conjecture on their part.  Some mixed photos below, as I found I had different steps photographed on different pairs.  😀

Their hose are designed with an inner bias cut foundation.  The canions (if worn) are straight cut and basted to the bottom of the foundation, as below:

canion

The fronts and backs are then sewn together, in preparation for the ‘bag’ of the trunkhose to be attached after it’s prepared.  The trunkhose lining/bag is multiple layers- as an experiment, I cut one pair with layers of canvas, linen, and silk, and one pair with thin wool, linen, and silk.  The lining is marked on the inside with darts, and then darted to fit the lining, sewn into place across the tops of the canions.

darts

Once the bag is attached to the hose, you add stiffening to the inside- I used a folded layer of quilt batting.  I wanted to see how much poofiness the stiffening added to the pants, so, here’s the brown pair before stiffening:

hose-before

And here they are afterwards.  You can see the stiffening definitely makes a difference.

hose-after

And for comparison, here’s the pair that are interlined with canvas, but no additional stiffening:

hose-after-canvas

The canvas definitely gives a whole lot of poof, and not much extra weight.  I think this will be my preferred method going forward in constructing trunkhose.

Next steps- I need to finish the panes for the white pair, and attach those, and sew the waistband/eyelets on both pairs.  The brown pair is wearable, though I ran out of thread before I could finish sewing all of the eyelets.

I also have decided that for future pairs, I will cut down the interlining layers a few inches short of the waistband- the additional layers added a whole lot of bulk that was awkward to manage when sewing the gathers into the waistband, and added far too much bulk into the waistband itself.

Upcoming projects for myself include a French hood, and “something” out of some gorgeous black silk/wool I have, and some plum wool… if I could only stop the internal debating as to what those “somethings” should be.  😀

 

 

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