I’ve started a new menswear project, as my boyfriend’s only garb so far is quite heavy wool, which won’t be suitable for an event we’re attending in July.
I don’t have a doublet pattern for him yet that I’m 100% happy with, and as the event is so soon, I decided to start with the Tudor Tailor pattern and modify from there instead of drafting from scratch to save a bit of time.
Here are the first adjustments. Quite a bit had to be taken in from the belly as we decided not to go with a peascod- this suit is meant to be light and summery, so a padded belly was right out. 😀
Several other adjustments were needed here as well. The waist needed to be raised a bit, and I also curved it quite a bit more (not shown in these pictures).
The sleeve needed to be lengthened and made wider in the forearm- we decided on a looser fitted sleeve for maximum mobility.
The fabric for the doublet is a thin, lightweight cream-coloured silk/wool blend we picked up in Japan for about € 4.50 a meter. 😀 The weave is quite tight, so we decided it’d be perfect for slashing, which meant the back piece would be better off as a single piece. We cut the silk/wool body pieces out for a fitting check:
You can see the linen through the silk wool blend on that second piece- it’s such a light fabric. I made a couple of additional tweaks to the pattern from here, and then started slashing. After a disastrous attempt at using chalk to do a grid (which made me very glad I’d purchased extra fabric. Always get extra fabric), I decided to use some old polyester thread I had laying around to make a grid pattern for the slashing.
In general the slashing went well, though I had to change up the pattern after making a mistake (oops). Still, I think it livens up the fabric a lot. I’m toying with further trim/decoration ideas, but think it will be minimal, I don’t want to take away from the visual impact of the slashing. Very occasionally the Elizabethans embraced a more minimalistic look. No really, it’s true, I’ve seen portraits and everything. 😀
The doublet is flatlined with a lightweight silk that turned out to be wonderfully breathable and soft after I washed all of the sizing out of it (when I bought it, it was horribly papery and stiff.) At first we considered using a contrasting colour for the flatlining, but then decided to go with cream as well, in order to keep all jerkin options for the future. The body alone will be lined with a medium weight linen to give the doublet a bit more structure without adding too much thickness/warmth.
Here’s the doublet in its current state, with slashing done and the sleeve pinned in to check the overall look. I think I might make the armscye just a hair bigger, but overall, I’m pleased so far. Please ignore the way the skirting is misbehaving on the left side, it hasn’t been pressed yet (nor has anything else on the doublet yet). I am also still considering whether or not to slash the skirt, but am leaning towards not. Leaving it smooth will provide a good transition into the trunkhose, I think.
Speaking of the trunkhose, here is one set of the panes, with trim pinned in place for handsewing on the 10h flight I have tomorrow. 😀 I’ve never made trunkhose before, I’m looking forward to this. The challenge with these as well will be getting the structure without making them unbearably hot (so the usual solutions of polyfill stuffing, etc are out.) At the moment, I’m planning on using the Tudor Tailor’s method for making them- we’ll see how it goes!